The Voiles d'Automne in St Tropez will sail under sunny November skies this year.
St Tropez' last sailing regatta for 2008 begins in earnest tomorrow (Nov 8) and only clement skies, sunshine, a decent breeze and zero road congestion on the menu.
Around 60+ mono-hull habitable sailboats are expected for the Voiles d'Automne 2008. They'll compete around the Bay of St Tropez during this sporty two-day regatta.
No, the Voiles d'Automne isn't the gorgeous and famous Voiles de St Tropez where classic wooden yachts as well as modern high-tech sailing machines race around the St Tropez waters (see our previous articles under "St Tropez Peninsula" for insights into those regattas). Nevertheless, the event makes for a good reason to set your virtual sails to St Tropez for a sunny escape.
Glitz and glamor are about go on sale in St Tropez at the annual Grande Braderie.
This is when St Tropez shops go wild and let go of their year's left-over wares at deep discounts (we've seen gorgeous linens at 80% off!) before they fill with next year's luxury. You'll find brand names but not only. Plenty of quality stuff for us ordinary mortals, and all for less. While some of the top designer clothing stores don't always discount the deepest, the deals are incredible especially on linens and table ware.
For 2008, the Grande Braderie runs from October 24th to 27th, from 9AM to 7PM.
With our belts even tighter this year, and the brasserie dates matching school holidays, expect crowds to storm in.
Tips?
Visit on the first day for best selection or last day for best deals.
Consider boating in from Cannes, St Raphael or Ste Maxime.
If you can pull it off, arrive by 9AM and leave just after lunch, for your sanity's sake
Need a few gentle hikes around the St Tropez peninsula after an day gorging on sales?
Check out our latest hiking guide to the French Riviera (also in Amazon.UK, DE, FR). Already on the French Riviera and in need of a copy? Drop us an email and we'll direct you to the closest shop that carries it.
If you're anywhere near the French Riviera town of Cavalaire-sur-Mer this winter, you might spot an elegant old-world wooden yacht skimming the Mediterranean Sea dressed with a four-cornered gaff mainsail that bears the number 8.
It's Moonbeam IV. She will moor at the port of Cavalaire-sur-Mer this winter. Undoubtedly, she will sail the neighborhood around the islands of Hyères, by St Tropez and beyond.
The Life of a Moonbeam
Designed by legendary William Fife III and last in the Fife line, Moonbeam IV has lead an exciting life since its birth in 1914.
As with all of the Fife-designed yachts, Moonbeam IV first belonged to London barrister Charles Plumtree Johnson. As soon as she was allowed to sail following WW I, she proved a thoroughbred racer, winning the King's Cup in 1920 and 1923.
In 1950 Prince Rainier of Monaco bought her for family use. He renamed her 'Deo
Juvante' ("with the help of God") after the Grimaldi family motto. With-The-Help-Of-God whisked newly wed Prince
and Grace Kelly off on the Med for their honeymoon.
In 1960, Italian Count Hannibal Scotti adopted Moonbeam IV, restored her original name and fitted her with new engines.
In 1995, it's John and Françoise Murray who found her sailing in the Aegean Sea. They acquired her and began the slow process of restoring Moonbeam 4 to her neat original teak glory keeping to the original materials, even restoring the original style of rig.
On Winning the Lottery
Ever since, she's been sailing around Antibes, Cannes, Corsica, St Tropez, Malta. When she isn't racing, she is chartered around the Mediterranean.
Curious about chartering? It costs €12,000 for a skippered weekend aboard Moonbeam IV. Contact skipper Mikael Créac'h for details.
The sun was out this Wednesday, October 1 2008 in the bay of St Tropez and the wind a gentle and finicky breeze that changed course just to tease the old time classic yachts of the Voiles de St Tropez and their crew.
Light capricious winds didn't bode well for the larger classic yachts. Still, the first two yachts racing in the schooner category at the Voiles de St Tropez swung around the Lion de Mer island too fast for me to drop everything at the office, rush to the port and snap a photo.
In the Schooner category, Mariquita finished ahead of Lulworth, Moonbeam III, Moonbeam IV and Thendara along the 22 miles of regatta from St Tropez, along the bay by Ste Maxime to St Raphael and back.
From the port of St Raphael, I watched Mariette, Moonbeam IV, Mariquita, Thendara, White Wings (a "spirit of tradition" yacht), Moonbeam III, Tuiga and Sylvia glide into the bay, tack and change course back to St Tropez. I've brought you back a few slides.
Enjoy the slide show. The race was a dizzying dance on the water.
Today, Wednesday October 2, 2008, the Mistral wind is howling. Our St Tropez intrepid sailors head south-west of St Tropez to the Golfe of Cavalaire where spectators are sure to have a ball.
Me? I'm glued to my desk chair, supposedly working on the next book, listening to the mad whistles of the wind, imagining the waves slapping those wooden decks...
Sunday, September 28, 2008: First day of the Voiles de St Tropez 2008!
It was off to a good start: it only took us 45 minutes to drive from Ste Maxime to St Tropez. On a Voiles de St Tropez morning (11:30AM), that's darn fast!
As usual for this race and show, gorgeous yachts lined up the quarry, all spiffed and shiny and ready for cameras.
The day was overcast, but sun rays pierced through the metallic clouds
to shine on the sails in the bay. And there were many. Over 300 boats
are expected for the Voiles de Saint-Tropez 2008, with 4000 sailors to
crew them. Along the quays and the cobbled streets of St Tropez
estimates are counting on some 20,000 spectators for the event.
We watched in awe the 140 feet (42 meters) schooner Senso One glide on the water at impressive speeds. With its two 45-meter masts and its sleek long hull, it dwarfed all other boats around it then. Despite its gigantic proportions, Senso One only weighs 50 tons thanks to its light-weight carbon fiber hull and stripped insides.
Around 3PM, the whistle blew to announce the first boat to sail in from Cannes from the Coupe d'Automne Yacht Club de France cup.
J Class sloop Shamrock V won the Coupe d'Automne 2008 today. Honestly, you're there for the fantastic show of new and old sails, elegance, technology. The St Tropez regatta is to be missed if you're anywhere near.
For details on the program that lasts until Ocotber 5, 2008, check out the organizer's web site:
There's so much to do here on the French Cote d'Azur that it's always good to receive spot-on travel tips as you plan your trip. Best of all is to hear it from locals or folks who have just returned from an excellent French Riviera vacation. You hear about that special trail, that special beach, that right-on tip as you're planning your vacation to the French Côte d'Azur.
So we're thrilled to hear from Mariette and Lorne, two fellow hikers from Vancouver Canada who recently returned from an awesome trip to the western French Riviera.
Although they hadn't planned it that way, Mariette and Lorne hiked along the region's Sentier du Littoral (Coastal Path) by gems such as the Cap Lardier and all along the sandy path by Le Lavandou. As it turns out, the hikes made for some of their most memorable experiences.
Here's what they say about their adventure:
M&L: We're empty-nesters keen on a holistic lifestyle. We live on the west coast of Canada, another place with amazing urban and back country (including coastal) hikes. We were open to try a few hikes on our trip to Southern France. Our initial plan was to visit St Tropez and perhaps fit in a short hike around the peninsula, time permitting.
After an experience with "code red" type traffic (note: visit was in July, around peak tourism time when many coastal roads experience grid-lock) when heading from Gonfaron to Cavalaire-sur-Mer, we stopped by Plage St Clair eager for a breath of fresh air. This was our first taste of coastal hiking on the French Riviera.
Aside from beautiful vistas, we also observed that this section of the trail is very well constructed and well marked. And it was a surprise to us that the segments of the trail remained quiet for a Sunday in July. After short hikes along the rocky shoreline and into the more urban areas which had us stroll through a beautiful marine, we were sold. We were going to discover more about these gorgeous coastal footpaths of the Cote d'Azur!
AzurAlive: What was your favorite hike on the French Riviera?
After a 1 1/2 hour drive from Gonfaron, a "Parking Gratuit" sign in Cavalaire-sur-Mer caught our attention. This is where we started our 4.5 hour round-trip trek by Cap Lardier. The hike was pure in-the-moment bliss! No iPods, no Backberry's to distract us.
Our day would be best described as "un festin sensuel". Just the serenade of the cigales (cicadas) under brilliant blue skies enchanted us. And what colors best describe the Mediterranean? A pale sky or deep blue or turquoise? All of them, depending on where you look.
The path was well-marked, well-worn and not too arduous. We were only slowed down by the beautiful vistas that called us out to stop.
We found very distinct sectional differences along the trail which provided diverse coastal views. On some segments of the trail a canopy of trees provided welcomed relief from the sun, other sections had not much more than low coastal shrub. We also traversed popular and busy beaches including the Plage de Gigaro where we felt somewhat over-dressed. I'm certain we looked like the march of the penguins.
Plage de Jovat on Cap Lardier was the perfect more quiet spot for a quick refreshing dip and lunch.
AA: Any specific recommendations for this hike, other than to be well equipped with plenty of water, hat, sunscreen and a few bites to eat?
M&L: In retrospect, we could have parked closer to Gigaro and bypassed some of the beach to reach the beginning of Cap Lardier. A better plan would actually have been to start our hike earlier and to allow more time to appreciate this coastal region. I do recommend this hike!
AA: Other great coastal treks on the French Riviera?
M&L: Around Cap Sicié. We were told that roads through the Massif du Cap Sicié were closed for summer. That was a perfect excuse to leave our rental car parked for the day and to head for the trails.
We walked along the beautiful sandy beaches of Plage des Sablettes before turning in toward the more urban La Seyne sur Mer. After returning to the coast, we passed by Plage de la Verne, a pebble beach much like that of Nice and Plage de Fabrégas and its black sand. Pine and other tall foliage gave way to low coastal shrub.
In contrast with Cap Lardier, we found a significant part of this trail to be quite open. Hikers will need appropriate head wear and protection for the sun. We also found this hike to be more physically challenging. In a few places, the trail winds, narrows and runs steep.
After a wonderful hike, we retreated to the nearby beaches for a seaside feed of moules-frites and a cool rosé wine. It couldn't get any better.
AA: What was your favorite aspect of hiking the Cote d'Azur?
When we left Canada, we had only limited information about the local coastal trails. We did not know how extensive the network of coastal trail, or just how many opportunities
exist on the French Riviera for wonderful outdoor experiences. We're so glad to have found out about them.
Our favorite things about hiking here? Wonderful views, no need for GPS systems, heavy survival kits or weather gear!
AA: Thanks Lorne and Mariette for the trip report and for the tips on veering off the car roads into the picturesque Sentier du Littoral footpaths of the Cote d'Azur. We hope you come back to visit soon.
For a colorful hiking guide to the western Cote d'Azur with maps and photos, check out the new "26 Gorgeous Hikes on the Western Côte d'Azur" below on Amazon.com.
It's always a thrill to hear back from our readers about their trip to the French Côte d'Azur.
In May 2008, Cameron and Richard set out to explore the French Riviera the way we like to do it: on foot across great hiking trails.
They came prepared. They had sorted through web sites, travel forums and hiking guidebooks (including our own guidebook to great hikes on the French Riviera). Their goal? To discover and explore the gems of the Côte d'Azur, those hiking trails that leave visitors in awe, those spots that linger in memory for a long time. We chatted with them online about our favorite walks in the Côte d'Azur.
All this preparation payed off. They had a fantastic time on the French Riviera, walking the most scenic parts of the coastal path and some of the back-country too.
We thought you could use their first-hand account of their visit to this corner of South Eastern France. What did they like best? What do they recommend? Here's what they said:
AzurAlive: What was your favorite hike on the Côte d'Azur?
C & R: The Saint Tropez Peninsula. The terrain was varied and the hike long enough to be very interesting. A return trip is
definitely in our future! We want to hike the entire trail. On our
next visit, we want to stay on the peninsula for a week so that we can
hike on several different days. In addition to the hiking, we feel that
the area is worth a longer visit. Our rental was in Mougins, so the
round-trip drive was too long for us to be able to hike more than one
segment.
AzurAlive: Anything about the area & hikes that surprised you?
C & R: Words can't describe the beauty of the region! Every step on the coastal trails presented us with gorgeous views.
We were surprised by the outgoing, friendly treatment that we
received everywhere we went. This included restaurant staff
and especially hikers that we passed on the trails. There seemed to
always be a pleasant "bonjour" from other hikers. The hikers were all
very courteous on the narrow trails. It is apparent that the French
hikers cherish and enjoy the trails.
We never knew of the many hiking possibilities available in the
region. It is obvious to us that the sentier littoral are very
important trails and worthy of preservation. We considered ourselves
fortunate to be able to see the region by traversing these nicely
maintained trails. Additionally, we felt as though we experienced
France by participating in an outdoor activity that put us close to the
culture, people and geography. We intend to return to the Cote d'Azur
to explore more coastal hikes. We want to finish hiking the St Tropez
Peninsula.
AzurAlive: Any tips for visitors interested in the full St Tropez hike?
C & R: Knowing enough French to be able to have pleasant exchanges with the locals will make for a more enriching experience!
The Tourist Information Office in St Tropez is very helpful. Stop
by to pickup additional information on the area, maps, restaurants, bus
schedules, etc.
If driving from another village, consider the time involved in
the round-trip drive as well as the hike. In hindsight, we wish we had
arranged to stay in St Tropez for several nights. We arrived early
enough in the morning to get into paid parking at the harbor. Based
upon our experience, I would try to hike on Monday through Thursday to
lessen the chance of traffic problems. We hiked on a Thursday and tried
to go back on Friday, but the traffic was far too slow to have time to
hike.
Be ready to start the hike in St Tropez no later than 8:30am for
the first segment. An earlier departure time is most likely preferable
for the longer segments.
Take a minimum of a large bottle of water per person. Even with cool temperatures, the air was dry and the sun was bright. Pack snacks and lunch. We each packed a sandwich cru as well as a package of nuts for protein. Wear sturdy shoes for foot stability across the varied terrain.
The most difficult walking was actually through the deep sand on the
beaches. We preferred to wear lightweight hiking pants rather than hiking shorts. Wear sunscreen and a hat if it's a sunny day.
Although we didn't need our jackets that day, we packed very lightweight rain jackets in our day pack.
Check on the availability of bus service (or other
transportation) back to Saint Tropez at the end of your hike. Plan
ahead to save enough time and energy to walk back to Saint Tropez. We
walked back to St Tropez after hiking the segment to Plage des Salins.
And take your camera!
AzurAlive: Thanks for sharing your trip with us. Time to plan for your next adventure!
Poppies are popping up everywhere this season in the Var department of France.
Here are a bunch of coy "coquelicots", blushing behind a nudist section of beach of Pampelonne by St Tropez...
You'll find Cap Camarat just south of the famous St Tropez Peninsula's Plage de Pampelonne.
But Cap Camarat has little sand and no beach bars or restaurants. It is a protected site, owned by the Conservatoire du Littoral and managed jointly by CEEP and the commune of Ramatuelle.
In its raw form, Cap Camarat is a block of cream and rusty granite, cracked and thrust above the sea. Along the Sentier du Littoral path that climbs up and down around the cape, Camarat displays its rocks in an assortment of shapes: in rectangular pitons with sides so smooth they appear sheared, in thin slices like layers of a wafer, in triangular wedges, in folds.
The below hiking loop of 1.5 hours takes you around Cap Camarat from the Plage de Bonne Terrasse, alongside cliffs of granite, up to the Camarat Lighthouse and down through inland side of the cape, back to the beach. Not recommended for small children due to cliffs.
Getting there: From Ramatuelle, follow the signs to "Les Plages": Pampelonne, Camarat, Bonne Terrasse. At an intersection, turn left towards La Bonne Terrasse. Follow the signs to Baie de la Bonne Terrasse. Park in the lot before the stretch of road that leads to the gated community "Domaine de Bonne Terrasse," and head by foot towards the sea.
Hiking: You take the path of white gravel that leads to the beach "Plage de Bonne Terrasse," walk over the crescent of beach heading south or right. Hike up on the A27 path to the Sentier du Litttoral, pass a tiny house with a broken tile roof.
Climb over white and caramel granite sheets of rock on the yellow-marked path. Notice the plants of Jupiter's Beard or in french, Barbes de Jupiter (Anthyllis barba-Jovis) growing seemingly on blocks of granite. They dig their roots in narrow cracks in the rock. In the spring, these silvery shrubs are covered in pale yellow flowers.
Continue your hike up the path carved into the rock, surrounded by bruyères and more Jupiter's Beards. You enter a forest of white oaks that leads to a panoramic view of the Plage de Bonne Terrasse, Pampelonne, even Saint-Raphael and l'Esterel.
After hiking among the maquis vegetation of arbousiers, green oaks, mistletoe, salsepareille, you reach a rocky path that takes you up to the Phare Camarat, the Camarat Lighthouse. Note that the lighthouse is closed to the public since early 2006.
Return by heading down the paved road inland towards Ramatuelle and turn right in the well-indicated A27 fire road. While a fire burned parts of the hill in 2006, re-growth appears healthy. Beyond the hill, a clear day offers views of the Maures, Les Issambres, St Raphael, l'Esterel.
The A27 path takes you back to the sentier du Littoral, by the beach de Bonne Terrasse.
The Voiles d'Automne in St Tropez will sail under sunny November skies this year. 
