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French Riviera Mimosa Festivals

The winter suns are in full bloom across the French Riviera and in full celebration.

Beginning last weekend (Jan 28-29 2012), the Festival du Mimosa celebrations make their way eastward, beginning in Bormes-les-Mimosas and continuing along the Côte d'Azur coastline and then inland in the Tanneron hills to end in Grasse. Most of the fun takes place on weekends, although garden visits and hikes are also planned in Mandelieu, Saint-Raphael and Rayol (gardens) during the week. Festivities last until March.

Mimosa Festival Schedule for 2012:

Bormes-les-Mimosas:    January 28 and 29
Rayol/Canadel-sur-Mer: February 4 and 5
Sainte-Maxime:             February 4 (with Evening Parade) and 5th (with Corso Fleuri parade)
Saint-Raphael:               February 11th (with Evening Carnaval) and 12th (with Day Time Carnaval) and 15th (Kids Carnaval)
Mandelieu-la-Napoule:   February 18th (with Evening Parade) and 19th (with Corso Fleuri)
Tanneron:                       February 4th and 5th (with Corso Fleuri parade)
Pegomas:                       January 28th and 29th, with mimosa walks and exhibitions until March
Grasse:                           Grasse focuses more on the perfume industry

For more information and to make reservations for the guided visits and hikes, contact the Tourism Offices for the chosen town.

Click on this line for a PDF with Toursim Offices contact information and detailed Mimosa Festival programming (in English).

Right now, snow has fallen on the Var and in the Alpes-Maritimes. The Mimosas are yellow and white. With the sun out, the flakes will soon melt...

The Esterel Mountains: Bearish?

Earlier this week, a family visiting the French Riviera from the UK and staying at the Estérel Caravaning campground pedaled their mountain bikes like mad back to their camground at the edge of the Estérel Mountains. They had been enjoying a bike ride in the Estérel when they spotted a bear. A big brown bear, close to the ford named Font du Pommier, by the Roussiveau Forester's house.

The family rushed back and alerted the camground who called police. Police and ONF had the parc closed. They patrolled the grounds with sniffing dogs. No trace of a bear. They called local zoos. No missing bear reported anywhere. They asked the local farmer who lives close-by with her goats. Animals are as calm as the Mediterranean in mid-summer when the Mistral doesn't blow. A helicopter even briefly patrolled over the sites on the lookout for a big brown bear. No bear sign anywhere.

What could have happened? An especially large wild boar crossed the road. The witnesses swear it wasn't just a boar. A person in a bear-suit pulling a prank? Possible, and more likely than an actual bear - the Esterel has not hosted a bear for as long as local memory can remember. In all the years we've hiked the Estérel, we have never either spotted one or heard of someone spotting one.

While the mystery unravels, local foresters keep a keen eye and ear out for bear signs.
As for us, we're always bullish on the gorgeous Esterel.

 

Bearly afraid? Check out this guide to hiking on the western French Riviera. 

Hiking Lac de l'Ecureuil

 
Not so long ago, the small lake in the Estérel mountains called the Lac de l'Ecureuil was empty. it had been drained after cracks were noticed in one of the retaining walls below.

Today, the lake is full again with little trouts swimming down its creeks.

The walk to Lac de l'Ecureuil is a favorite family hike in the Estérel Mountains. Why? It's an easy (mostly) flat walk. And it gives you a glimpse at the beauty of the red volcanic pikes that surround it.

 
Begin the adventure at the Col de Belle Barbe. If you're not familiar with the Estérel hiking trails, we recommend you head to the lake and come back the same way. This will take about 2.5 hours of leisurely walk. As usual with hiking here, don't go if it's too hot, bring plenty of drinking water (no fountains here), wear hiking shoes and head out early to give yourself plenty of time to enjoy the sites.

See the below guide for details and for more great walk in the Estérel. 

 

Agay: 21st Triathlon of Saint-Raphael

Today April 25, 2010 runs the 21st triathlon of St Raphael in and around the bay of Agay on the French Riviera.

The Agay competition hosts a couple of events: the short distance (courte distance) triathlon which counts for qualification of the French championships in this category. Expect all elite triathletes at this event. It starts at 9:30AM.

What's the parcourse?

• 1500 meters swim in the bay of Agay (max time is 50 minutes)
• 43 km bike in the Esterel
• 10K run

The second individual sprint triathlon begins at 3PM and includes:

• 750 meters swim in the bay of Agay (max time is 25 minutes)
• 18 km bike in the Esterel
• 5K run

It's a gorgeous sunny day in Agay today so if you're around, drop by. By all means, don't go near by car or risk being blocked. The event awaits 500 contestants, 200 volunteers and mounts of spectators.

For more info, visit the St Raphael Triathlon home page.

 

Shop 'til you drop your Versace purse

Once again, it's time for the yearly Braderie de St Tropez. Shops spill their ware into the streets, pin outrageous discounts on designer clothes, shoes, accessories, and more mundane stuff like linens, towels, soaps. It lasts 4 days and it's a zoo. By the end of the weekend, stands are a complete mess. You would think that wild boars have foraged through piles of clothes. Get there early!

When? Friday, October 23 to Monday Oct 26, included. Starts at 9AM and runs until about 7PM.

Sadly, the Barbarac ice cream is not on sale during the braderie.

Boulouris: Belvedere du Dramont

When in the French Riviera seaside town of Boulouris, it's impossible to miss the little town center, the Monday morning open market, the sea, the many coves and beaches, the Cap du Dramont cape.

What you could miss is the hiking trail locally called le sentier du Castellas in Boulouris.

The trail begins in a remote area, in front of the CREPS' Golf School in Boulouris (CREPS = Centres d’Éducation Populaire et de Sport or high-level sports school). It then heads up over rugged terrain in the rocky Estérel hills. About mid-way into the hike to Cap Estérel in Agay, you reach a site that many local hikers know well: the Belvedere du Dramont. Up on a hillside, it offers views of the coast, Le Dramont, the Cap Estérel resort and all of Agay.

Neither July nor August make the best months for the hike - it gets hot then, and trees are sparse for shade. Round-trip back through the Dramont coastline is 12 km (count on about 4 hours), but you can shorten the hike by going from the CREPS Golf School to Cap Esterel and back. This shorter loop takes a little less than 3 hours for 8 km. As usual, bring plenty of drinking water. You'll be in nature: no pubs, not even water fountains!

You'll find a map at the beginning of the trail. Note that it's a general map, not all that specific... be prepared and bring a taste for adventure.

 

Interested in half-day hikes close to Boulouris? Check out our highly-acclaimed hiking guide below on Amazon.com (and Amazon.co.uk, Amazon.fr, Amazon.de too!)

View AzurAlive.com: Boulouris and the Dramont Belvedere in a larger map

Ocean Village Visits

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Ocean Village Two is back. This weekend, the festive-looking ocean cruise ship maneuvered its 245 meters (800 feet) of length, its 14 decks, its 8 bars, its 4 restaurants, its gym, pools, golf driving nets, volleyball courts, beauty salons and its 1,600 passengers into the bay of Saint-Raphael on the French Riviera. Want to check out its deck plans? Click here to take a peek - designed to please active sporty passengers.

Its the first of a total of thirteen Ocean Village visits to St Raphael this summer. Next visit to Saint Raphael? May 24, 2009.

Click on this article to read more about Ocean Village Two's stop in St Raphael & what to do there.

Note that beginning in Autumn 2009, Carnival UK, owners of the Ocean Village cruise line, will begin to phase out the Ocean Village brand. Beginning with Christmas 2009, rthe two Ocean Village ships will transfer to another Carnival UK cruise line, the P&O Cruises Australia brand. A new European Program from Carnival UK is expected for 2010. Not sure yet if and where they'll stop in the Mediterranean. See the Carnival UK site for details.

Schedule of Summer 2009 cruise visits to St Raphael, France:

Ocean Village 2:  Sundays May 10 and 24, June 7 and 21, July 5 and 19, August 2, 16 and 30, September 13 and 27

Oriana visits on: Thursday, May 14

Artemis visits on: Thursday, September 24

Roman Amphora Snatching

In our previous post about underwater archaeology on the western French Riviera, we mentioned the generous number of amphorae and ship wrecks lying quietly under Riviera waters. They're the pride of local archaeologists and the joy of expert divers.

They're also the target of looters.

In mid-January 2009, a couple of folks were caught lifting an amphora out of the waters in the St Tropez bay. When police approached the diving boat for a routine check, they noticed a large object being thrown hastily overboard. It was an ancient Roman amphora. With a pocket of air still caught inside, the amphora simply rose back up to the surface and floated.

It is illegal in France to keep ancient artifacts discovered along the French coast, and snatching them is punishable with prison time and hefty fines.

In deeper waters, wrecks are discovered with sophisticated sonar and video equipment. Few individuals can afford this type of professional equipment so looting is less of an issue far offshore.

In shallow waters, ship wrecks endure more damage from plant and coral growth and from churning waves. They also become accessible to casual divers including a small number of ill-intentioned ones. The Islands of Hyères (Port-Cros, Porquerolles and Levant), Cap Lardier, the St Tropez Peninsula, St Rapael, Cap Dramont, Cannes, Antibes, Nice, all are sites rich with underwater ship wrecks from ancient to modern times.

Interested in learning more about them? Take a look at our previous post on Riviera archaeology for books we recommend on the subject on Amazon.fr (sorry, currently in French only).

Callian: The Lucky Snout

The perched village of Callian in the French countryside by Fayence may seem like a snail: its streets wind slowly around its castle like a spiraling snail shell. But it's a pig that holds all the Callian luck. Touch its snout and good luck will follow, it is said.

"O toi qui viens de loin,
Si tu frottes mon groin (that's snout)
A coup sûr très grand bien
A jamais sera tien!"

The snout awaits at the bottom of the Tour de l'Horloge, polished by 50 years of hopeful rubs.

French Riviera Cruising: Ocean Village Two

This Sunday, we headed out to watch a sailboat race in the bay of Saint-Raphael on the French Riviera. We peered into the bay from the port of Santa Lucia at the eastern tip of the town of St Raphael.

In the middle of the bay sat a long, tall, cruising line boat, with orange and red circles painted on the side of its hull. The colorful rings reminded us of Olympic rings, or possibly colorful waves bouncing off the bow.

It was Ocean Village 2, the big cruise line that's "for folks who don't do cruises". The huge boat anchored in the bay for its French Riviera stop along its Villas and Vino Mediterranean cruise.

The boat has a pretty cool itinerary: Palma on the island of Majorca, Tunis in Tunisias, Naples to Florence and Pisa, St Raphael on the French Riviera, Ajaccio in Corsica and then back to Palma in 7 nights.

The Ocean Village Two is not a sedate kinda experience. Or let's say, it doesn't have to be. The cruise line offers what they call Action Ashore adventures at most ports of call. At the Saint-Raphael stop, you can head for the Var river for an organized white river rafting adventure, paddling and screaming your way down the frothing waters; you can travel 12 miles on a mountain bike and cool off at the Fréjus beach. Or you can head for a full-day (7.5 hours) guided visit of the pretty restored village of Grimaud, the waterside village of Port-Grimaud and St Tropez. The Action Ashore adventures vary by year, but they're typically pricey.

We watched the tender boats like little nut shells against the multi-storied floating hotel. They whisked passengers back and forth from boat to shore.

Many upcoming Ocean Village passengers have asked us: what should we do in St Raphael? Should we go for the organized adventures? Or is there lots to do in and around St Raphael.

I say: spend the day in St Raphael. Your sea legs and cabin fever head will thank you.

Outside of winter or late fall and early spring, there's almost always something going on by the St Raphael beach-side promenade. Here's a sample:

• Watch the sailboats whiz by, especially from the eastern side of town where the Nautical Center is.
• Try une glace at an ice cream parlor (open in the summer)
• Enjoy the Arts and Crafts displays set-up most Sundays on the seaside prom
• Take a spin on the merry go rounds by the seaside prom
• Take the kids to playground on solid ground; it overlooks the sea so you'll have a great view of the cruise line :). The playground is just above the underground parking in front of the Casino and the Tourism Office
• Relax on any of the few sandy beaches including the most popular, Plage du Veillat. You'll find a couple of pebble beaches too.
• Stroll by the port at the eastern tip of Saint-Raphael by the Santa Lucia Marina. Enjoy lunch at any of the restaurants there - most are good and reasonably priced.
• Visit the old town, its open market in the morning at the Victor Hugo Place and Republique Place, its 12C restored church of San Rafeu in the back of the town. You'll find the Marché du Haut or Upper Open Market inland continuing on the main street by the cathedral and the Monoprix, beyond the train tracks and the Mayor's office. It's a ways away from the beach but within walking distance.

The other question you often ask: what's our favorite restaurant in town?

I'm part and partial to the Hotel L'Excelsior's restaurant, especially with a table on the terrace facing the promenade with a plat du jour (around €15 in 2008) and a crisp glass of rosé. The hotel may be exclusive and expensive, but the restaurant is very reasonable given the quality of the food. It may be exactly what you need to escape that wonderful but oh so repetitive cruise menu.

Around six o'clock, we heard the floating hotel's loud and plaintiff siren. The cruise liner had gobbled up all of its passengers back on board, or so we hope. It was time for it to travel to Ajaccio in Corsica.  We watched it point S-E into the open seas and disappear from view.